Russische zorgen

 

 

De kosten van een pan soep

Rusland beweerde gisteren dat Frankrijk en het Verenigd Koninkrijk werken aan het leveren van 'een superwapen' aan Oekraïne. Gedoeld werd op een kernwapen of een 'vuile bom', een explosief dat radioactief materiaal verspreidt. De media die het nieuws naar buiten brachten beroepen zich op informatie van de Russische buitenlandse inlichtingendienst (SVR). Dmitri Medvedev, de oud-president en huidige vice-voorzitter van de Russische Veiligheidsraad, greep het bericht aan om opnieuw te dreigen met een nucleaire aanval op Oekraïne en sloot bovendien een dergelijke aanval op Frankrijk en het VK ook niet uit. Waarschijnlijk was de boodschap vooral als afleidingsmanoeuvre voor Vladimir Putins annexatie van Oekraïne bedoeld, die tot op heden weinig succesvolle 'speciale militaire operatie' begon gisteren namelijk exact vier jaar geleden.

Ondertussen hebben de enorme defensie-uitgaven, tezamen met het geheel aan westerse sancties, de Russische economie zwaar onder druk gezet. Sommige Russen kunnen zich enkel nog pap veroorloven en inmiddels zijn zelfs alledaagse spullen voor veel mensen te duur. Dit blijkt ook uit de Borsjtsj-index, een index die meet hoeveel het kost om een pan borsjtsj, bietensoep, te maken.*1 Door de prijzen van ingrediënten als bieten, aardappelen, kool en vlees te volgen, laat de index zien hoe hard inflatie Russische huishoudens treft. Deze is sinds het begin van de oorlog van 393 naar boven de 500 roebel gestegen.

De Borsjtsj-index wordt in Rusland beschouwd als een betrouwbare indicator voor de levenskwaliteit van de armste dertig procent van de bevolking. Waar officiële inflatiecijfers van de Centrale Bank van Rusland rond de 4,5% - 5,5% voor 2026 worden voorspeld, laat de Borsjtsj-index zien dat de kosten voor de bereiding van het nationale gerecht inmiddels al veel harder zijn gestegen. Inmiddels besteden Russische huishoudens gemiddeld 40 procent van het inkomen aan voeding, in april 2025 was dat nog ongeveer 34 procent.


©Huub Drenth

*1 Recept voor borsjtsj.

Heeft Putin de kaarten?

Rusland breekt alle records

Volgens The Economist, BBC News Russia en het onafhankelijke medium Mediazona, was 2025 verreweg het meest bloedige jaar voor de Russische strijdkrachten sinds het begin van de invasie in Oekraïne. De laagste schatting voor het aantal Russische militaire doden in 2025 ligt op 100.000 en zal onvermijdelijk stijgen naarmate er meer informatie beschikbaar komt en er meer overlijdensberichten worden gepubliceerd. Het totale aantal Russische slachtoffers sinds 24 februari 2022, vandaag exact vier jaar geleden, wordt geschat op 190.000 tot 480.000.

De bandbreedte is echter fors, het Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) schat bijvoorbeeld het aantal Russische slachtoffers sinds 2022 op 1,2 miljoen, waarvan zeker 325.000 doden. Voor 2025 houdt het CSIS het op 415.000 Russische slachtoffers, dat is een verbijsterend maandgemiddelde van een 35.000 dode, gewonde en vermiste Russische mannen. Volgens het CSIS heeft geen enkele grootmacht in een gewapend conflict sinds de Tweede Wereldoorlog dergelijke verliescijfers laten zien.

Saillant detail: het tempo van de rekrutering in Rusland bleef vorig jaar steken op ongeveer 30.000 tot 35.000 mensen per maand, net genoeg om de verliezen in de gehaktmolen te compenseren, maar volstrekt onvoldoende om nieuwe eenheden te vormen, laat staan om strategische reserves op te bouwen.

En het ziet er niet naar uit dat deze Russische modus operandi in 2026 zal veranderen. De oorlog in Oekraïne blijft een uitputtingsoorlog, met een slagveld dat gedomineerd wordt door precisiewapens en drones die grootschalige manoeuvres vrijwel onmogelijk maken. Diepe doorbraken, omsingelingen of instortingen van het front zullen als gevolg daarvan uitblijven, waardoor een beslissende nederlaag van de Oekraïense strijdkrachten onwaarschijnlijk is. Of zoals de Britse denktank Royal United Services Institute het formuleert: Oekraïne verliest niet en Rusland wint niet.


Bron: BNR

Irpin, maart 2022.

 

Agálas johtin

Quora, oppdatert 12. jan. 2026:

Kan samene fra Norge, Sverige og Finland forstå hverandre?

Rolf Theil, tidligere professor i lingvistikk, Universitetet i Oslo (1966–2016): 

Det finst 9~10 levande samiske språk i Noreg, Sverige, Finland og Russland, og grensene mellom desse språka følgjer ikkje statsgrensene, fordi dei utvikla seg før nordmenn, svenskar, finnar og russarar la ulike delar av dei samiskspråklege delane av Fennoskandia under seg.*1 

(Eg skriv «9~10 levande samiske språk» fordi statusen til akkalasamisk er uklar.)

(Dei samiske språka stammar frå ursamisk, som blei snakka om lag på same tid som urnordisk, dvs rundt dei fem første hundreåra etter Kristi fødsel. Det er vandringsrutene til reindriftsamane – mellom sommarbeite og vinterbeite – som har bestemt grensene mellom språka. Vandringa skjer på tvers av den skandinaviske halvøya.) 

Sørsamar i Sverige og Noreg snakkar same språket og skjønar med andre ord kvarande, men di lenger nordover og austover du kjem i Fennoskandia, di vanskelegare er det for ein sørsamisktalande å forstå andre samiske språk. Ein sørsame kan truleg forstå ein god del ume- og pitesamisk, men så er det slutt. Nordsamar og sørsamar snakkar saman på norsk og svensk.

Dei som snakkar nordsamisk, forstår lulesamisk relativt greitt, men ume- og pitesamisk er det nok verre med. Dei samiske språka lenger aust, frå enare- og skoltesamisk og vidare bortover på Kola, er vanskelege å forstå for nordsamisktalande. For over 50 år sidan – da eg studerte nordsamisk – følgde eg eit kurs i enaresamisk ved Universitetet i Oslo, og dei nordsamisktalande studiekameratane mine hadde ikkje noko lettare for å forstå tekstane enn eg. Men dei nordsamisktalande i Noreg forstår utan vidare nordsamisk i Sverige og Finland. Eg har møtt nordsamisktalande samar frå Finland som har jobba i Karasjok. Dei brukar nordsamisk i jobben. Dei kan finsk (og engelsk) i tillegg til nordsamisk, men norsk kan dei ikkje.

Skoltesamar i Noreg, Finland og Russland forstår kvarandre.


Quora/Rolf Theil

Wimme - Agálas johtin / Eternal journey.

  

*1 Academia Cervena: Introduction to the Sami Languages,
    JuLingo: About the Sámi languages.

  

What a comeback!

Combat, survival and triumph

MILAN, Feb 16 (Reuters) - Figure skater Ryuichi Kihara said he could not stop crying since the early setback he and partner Riku Miura suffered on Sunday, but on Monday the duo climbed back to win Japan's first Olympic pairs gold with a powerful, Gladiator-themed free skate.

The two‑time world champions had been devastated after finishing fifth in the short programme due to a lift error, but returned with a performance  their coach, Bruno Marcotte, said was built on heart, belief and seven years of resilience.

Kihara, 33, said he struggled to shake off the previous day's mistake and arrived at practice still shaken. 

Riku Miura said seeing her partner in tears pushed her to take the lead.

"Ryuichi has been crying since this morning, and so I felt like I needed to be strong and support him and help him focus," the 24-year-old said.

Their free skate reflected their struggles — a programme built around combat, survival and triumph.

Skating to music from the "Gladiator" soundtrack performed by Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli, they attacked every element with the steadiness that had deserted them a day earlier, their choreography echoing the resilience that has defined their partnership.

Source: Agnieszka Flak/Reuters

American Arctic readiness

 

 

  

Humiliated by Finnish reservists

In an article published January 21, journalists at The Times argue that US forces are poorly prepared for military operations in the Arctic. Citing a source in military circles, the paper reports that the US armed forces lack both the resources and the practical experience needed to operate effectively in this region.

According to the article, American troops are outperformed even by their European NATO partners when it comes to Arctic readiness. The best prepared for harsh northern conditions, The Times notes, are the forces of the Scandinavian countries, Finland and the United Kingdom.

A military source told the paper that during last year’s Joint Viking exercises in northern Norway, US units ran into serious difficulties.*1 The source said the exercise command had to ask Finnish reservists, who were playing the role of the simulated enemy, to ease up on the American troops because their performance was becoming, in his words, "humiliating and demoralising" for the US side.*2

The report also states that the United States still depends on Finnish technology for building icebreakers, while European countries have far more substantial hands-on experience operating in Arctic conditions. Against this backdrop, The Times concludes that if US President Donald Trump truly wants to "protect" the region, continuing to antagonise America’s Arctic allies is the wrong approach.

The newspaper adds that Joint Viking is not the only exercise taking place in the High North: NATO also conducts drills such as Cold Response. According to The Times, the alliance is now discussing the creation of an "Arctic Sentry" mission, intended to counter what it describes as "Russian threats" in the region.


Source: Military Affairs/John Baker

 

 

Finnish reservists.

 

*1 Joint Viking is a Norwegian winter exercise held every other year. Around 10,000 Norwegian and allied soldiers took part in the exercise, held in Northern Norway from 3 to 14 March 2025. The aim of the exercise was to enhance allied interoperability, train on protecting NATO's northern flank and to test Norway's ability to recieve allied reinforcements. Joint Viking 2025 gathered participants from nine nations: Norway, Canada, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, and the USA. 

*2 Finland, which has the longest border with Russia of any NATO or EU country, is well known for its decades of focus on a possible attack from its eastern neighbour, leading to a level of preparedness perhaps unequalled in the western world. It has fought many conflicts with Russia, most infamously the winter war of 1939/40 in which the Nordic country inflicted hundreds of thousands of casualties on the invading Soviet army. Almost a third of Finland's adult population are reservists, giving the country of just 5.6 million people one of the largest militaries in Europe and its joint largest amount of artillery. While conscription is mandatory for Finnish men, it is voluntary for women aged 18–29. After completing their service, women are placed in the reserve just like their male counterparts, with similar duties and opportunities for further training. Since its initiation in 1995, up to more than 14,000 women in total have completed the voluntary military service for women.

  

New leaders

 

 

 

Freedom is a collective practice

The free Western world is urgently searching for new leadership as its former leader, the United States of America, sinks ever deeper into a quagmire of fascism. A few days ago, Canada’s prime minister, Mark Carney, delivered an impressive speech at the World Economic Forum in Davos in which he outlined the path that the remaining democratic nations must follow in order to preserve their political and economic autonomy, as well as their moral dignity and freedom.

"The middle powers must act together," Carney said, referring to Canada, the EU and countries like Japan, Brazil, Australia and South Korea, "because if we’re not at the table, we’re on the menu." Donald Trump was not mentioned by name in the speech, but it was clear to everyone that these remarks referred to him. Mark Carney is a man of action, not merely a talker like many of his European counterparts, and he was therefore met with considerable acclaim from his audience. He is clearly the kind of political leader that intelligent, freedom-minded people all over the globe are longing for in a rapidly changing world order.*1

Another form of leadership – this time in the historical and philosophical-ethical realm – is embodied by the American historian Timothy Snyder. He was among the first political refugees when Donald Trump came to power a year ago. From 2017 to 2025, he served as the Richard C. Levin Professor of History at Yale University, today he teaches at the Munk School of Global Affairs and Public Policy at the University of Toronto.*2

¡Principio del fin!
Será muerto el Hombre Orquesta de Norte América.
Benjamin Solari Parravicini, 1938.*3

On January 16, during a sold-out evening at BOZAR in Brussels, Timothy Snyder spoke with historian Pieter Lagrou about freedom, democracy, and resistance in an age of growing authoritarian pressure.

Drawing on his work on history, from the Holocaust to contemporary Ukraine, Snyder emphasized that freedom is more than the absence of constraints. It requires active engagement, moral choice, and care for one another. In dialogue with Lagrou, he reflected on historical lessons and present-day threats such as authoritarianism and digital manipulation. He warned against the abuse of free speech in the digital age, arguing that it should serve to challenge power rather than monopolize the information space.

Snyder stressed the vital role of history in defending democracy, as it helps societies resist propaganda, simplistic narratives, and the illusion of an inevitable future. The evening concluded with a powerful conclusion: freedom is not an individual possession, but a collective practice – one that must be continuously upheld by citizens, institutions, and generations alike.


©Huub Drenth

 

Emperor Donald Trump.

 

*1 Mark Carney's speech at the World Economic Forum in Davos. 

*2 I’ve published a number of posts on Timothy Snyder, use the search bar beneath this post to explore them. 

*3 Translation from Spanish: Beginning of the end! The one-man orchestra of North America will be killed. Known as "the Nostradamus of the Americas," Benjamin Solari Parravicini (1898–1974) was an Argentine artist who made extraordinary prophecies about the world’s future. What made his clairvoyance especially compelling was that it was expressed artistically through hundreds of drawings, known as "psychographs," each accompanied by short, handwritten messages. The drawing in this post was made by him in 1938.

 

A rupture, not a transition

 

 

Europe must heed Mark Carney – and embrace a painful emancipation from the US

EU leaders would do well to meditate on the seminal lesson that the Canadian prime minister, Mark Carney, delivered at this year’s World Economic Forum.

In an incisive analysis of the new age of predatory great powers, where might is increasingly asserted as right, Carney not only accurately defined the coarsening of international relations as “a rupture, not a transition”. He also outlined how liberal democratic “middle powers” such as Canada – but also European countries – must build coalitions to counter coercion and defend as much as possible of the principles of territorial integrity, the rule of law, free trade, climate action and human rights. He spelled out a hedging strategy that Canada is already pursuing, diversifying its trade and supply chains and even opening its market to Chinese electric vehicles to counter Donald Trump’s tariffs on Canadian-made automobiles.

Carney’s clear-eyed recognition that the age of the western-led “rules-based international order” – with all its flaws and inconsistencies – is not coming back contrasts with dithering among European leaders, many of whom still seem to believe they can flatter, bribe and appease Trump into taking their interests into account. Fear of Trump storming out of Nato or abandoning Ukraine to Russian dismemberment has so far prevented them from taking a strong stance against his bullying of allies.

 

Nuuk, Greenland.

The US president’s insistence on taking possession of Greenland, and his threat of punitive tariffs against European allies who sent a small reconnaissance force to Greenland last week in support of Denmark, should be the red line that finally triggers a united and firm European response. Yet nothing is less certain, with EU leaders still torn between de-escalation and bargaining on the one hand, and escalation to create a balance of power before any negotiation, on the other.

Trump muddied the waters after giving a belligerent speech in Davos, by announcing he had “formed the framework of a future deal” on Greenland in talks with Nato’s Mark Rutte and would not, after all, be imposing those threatened additional tariffs. But Europeans should not be lulled into dropping their guard.

Carney’s lesson in Davos could not have been clearer and more timely. “When we only negotiate bilaterally with a hegemon, we negotiate from weakness. We accept what’s offered. We compete with each other to be the most accommodating,” he warned. “This is not sovereignty. It’s the performance of sovereignty while accepting subordination. In a world of great power rivalry, the countries in between have a choice – compete with each other for favour, or combine to create a third path with impact.”

In other words, Europe can only hope to stop Trump’s abuse of US power if it acts with unity and strength, and joins forces with like-minded countries such as Canada, but also Japan, Australia, Brazil and India, to build new trade pacts and rules.*

Paul Taylor/The Guardian

 

* Visit this post on the site of the World Economic Forum to read the full transcript of the speech by Mark Carney in Davos. The post also contains a video of Carney's complete performance on January 20, 2026.

 

Goodbye my friend

A joint statement

Europe vowed a united response after President Donald Trump said he would impose tariffs on eight of its allies for sending troops to Greenland, an autonomous territory of Denmark that the president has repeatedly threatened to annex.

Trump said Saturday he would introduce 10% tariffs on imports from Denmark, Norway, Sweden, France, Germany, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands and Finland, all of which sent small numbers of military personnel to Greenland in recent days to take part in military exercises.

The move, which comes as Trump has stepped up his campaign to annex the territory, prompted a wave of condemnation from the leaders of the ostensible U.S. allies, which were already subject to tariffs of 10% and 15%. The row could call into question trade deals the U.S. struck with the U.K. in May and the European Union in July.

On Sunday, the eight countries issued a joint statement declaring that they “stand in full solidarity with the Kingdom of Denmark and the people of Greenland.” 

"As members of Nato, we are committed to strengthening Arctic security as a shared transatlantic interest. The pre-coordinated Danish exercise Arctic Endurance conducted with Allies, responds to this necessity. It poses no threat to anyone,” the statement said. 

"Tariff threats undermine transatlantic relations and risk a dangerous downward spiral. We will continue to stand united and coordinated in our response. We are committed to upholding our sovereignty," it added. 

 

Upernavik in northwest Greenland, 19th century.

A day earlier, Trump’s announcement set off a firestorm across European capitals as he threatened tariffs in his latest effort to acquire the territory of Greenland for the United States.

“Denmark, Norway, Sweden, France, Germany, The United Kingdom, The Netherlands, and Finland have journeyed to Greenland, for purposes unknown. This is a very dangerous situation for the Safety, Security, and Survival of our Planet,” Trump said in a Truth Social post Saturday announcing the tariffs. 

Trump added that the tariffs would increase to 25% on June 1, and would remain in effect “until such time as a Deal is reached for the Complete and Total purchase of Greenland.”

His comments came as thousands rallied on Saturday in the Danish cities of Copenhagen, Aarhus, Aalborg and Odense, as well as in Greenland’s capital, Nuuk, to oppose Trump’s annexation plans. In Nuuk, hundreds marched to the U.S. consulate, some holding signs that read “Greenland is not for sale,” and “Yankees go home!”


 Richard Hall and Rebecca Schneid/Time (January 18)

Nuuk, Greenland.

Donald the Conqueror

 

Yesterday

Denmark’s foreign minister Lars Løkke Rasmussen and Greenland’s foreign minister Vivian Motzfeldt met the US vice-president JD Vance for talks in Washington.

Following the meeting, Rasmussen told a news conference: “I know very well that the future is not about the past, but I think it is important to have the past in mind. We are eager to fulfil our promises. Even though our view on the situation right now around Greenland differs from public statements in the US, we want to work closely with the US, but it must be of course a respectful kind of cooperation.”

Rasmussen said the two ministers told their US counterparts that “it is not easy to think innovative[ly] about solutions when you wake up every morning to different threats.”

Rasmussen said it was a constructive meeting with the US, but admitted “we didn’t manage to change the US position” so far. “It’s clear that the president has this wish of conquering Greenland, and we made it very, very clear that this is not in the interest of the Kingdom [of Denmark].”

 

Kullorsuaq, an Inuit village in northwest Greenland.

France is expected to join the new European military mission to Greenland, Agence France-Presse reported.

Germany said it would deploy a 13-strong Bunderwehr reconnaissance team to “explore the framework conditions for possible military contributions to support Denmark in ensuring security in the region”, the German defence ministry said, quoted by AFP.

The European parliament leaders issued a statement declaring their “firm” support for Denmark, Greenland and the rules-based international as they “unequivocally” condemned the US ambition to control the semi-autonomous territory. They stressed that “any attempt to undermine the sovereignty and the territorial integrity of Denmark and Greenland, violates international law and the United Nations Charter.” They added that “the security of the Arctic is a strategic priority for the European Union, and we are firmly committed to safeguarding it,” calling for “reinforcing European defence capabilities” to ensure security in the Arctic region.

Greenlandic deputy prime minister, Múte B. Egede, said that more soldiers were expected in the coming days, joined by “more military flights and ships” as part of hastily convened “Operation Arctic Endurance.”

The Guardian

 

 

A Courtship In Greenland by Carl Rasmussen, ca. 1880.

 

Oil or drugs?

 

Michael Clarke's comment on Russia's reaction.

Happy New Year

10.31 CET 

US president Donald Trump claims that the Venezuelan president, Nicolás Maduro, and his wife Cilia Flores have been “captured and flown out of the country”.

In a Truth Social post shared only moments ago, Trump wrote:

"The United States of America has successfully carried out a large scale strike against Venezuela and its leader, President Nicolas Maduro, who has been, along with his wife, captured and flown out of the Country. This operation was done in conjunction with U.S. Law Enforcement. Details to follow. There will be a News Conference today at 11 A.M., at Mar-a-Lago. Thank you for your attention to this matter! President DONALD J. TRUMP."

The Guardian has been unable to independently verify this report.

 

Nicolás Maduro and his wife Cilia Flores.  

12.47 CET

Russia has condemned the US military action in Venezuela on Saturday, saying there was no tenable justification for the attack and that “ideological hostility” had prevailed over diplomacy, reports Agence France-Presse (AFP).

Venezuela is Russia’s most important ally in South America, though the Kremlin has stopped short of offering assistance to Caracas in the event of a conflict with the US.

The Russian foreign ministry said in a statement:

This morning, the United States committed an act of armed aggression against Venezuela. This is deeply concerning and condemnable.

The pretexts used to justify such actions are untenable. Ideological hostility has triumphed over businesslike pragmatism.

The statement did not mention Venezuelan leader Nicolás Maduro, whom US President Donald Trump claimed was captured during Saturday’s military action on the South American country.

“We reaffirm our solidarity with the Venezuelan people,” Russia’s statement said, adding there were no reports of Russian citizens injured in US strikes.

Source: The Guardian

Maduro after his capture.

Terug in de bloementuin

 

 

Je vliegt boven de wei en krast. Alleen. Je bent ook in mij, als een gedicht, een haiku, als een grondtoon of een middelpunt waarin ik me kan terugtrekken en tegelijk met al het zijnde verbonden weet. Een punt dat alle punten insluit. Een bron. De wetten van de ruimte gelden er niet en dan vallen die van de tijd ook weg. Je krast boven de wei. Jij bent mijn houvast om bij deze bron terug te keren. Mijn archimedisch punt. Als je dit punt in je ontdekt, weet je tegelijk, dat is het paradoxale, dat je geen punt nodig hebt om je aan af te meten of om je af te zetten. Jij krast boven de wei, alleen, er komt geen antwoord. Het is zomer. Het is herfst.
   Een schone lei.

Kraai, je bent er.

                                                                                               Donald Niedekker

 

Aanzegger en voorbode

De foto aan het begin van deze post maakte ik afgelopen zondagmiddag in het Stadspark. Op een locatie die als de bloementuin bekend staat, een plek waar May Khoen en ik vroeger vaak kwamen maar die er nu kaal en verlaten bij lag. Voor alle duidelijkheid: het is een kleurenfoto en de vogel in de boom is een kraai. Het was nogal mistig die dag.

De openingstekst is afkomstig uit het boek Kraai van Donald Niedekker. Om precies te zijn: het is de laatste pagina van die novelle. Ik leerde Niedekker kennen door zijn roman Waarachtige beschrijvingen uit de permafrost, waarin hij op poëtische wijze gestalte geeft aan een fictief bemanningslid van de beruchte expeditie van Willem Barentsz in 1596. Ik vond dat boek erg goed en kocht daarom ook Kraai. Het is een soort dagboek, met allerlei poëtische en filosofische observaties over de natuur rond Niedekkers woonstee, en dan met name over de kraai. Wat ik toen nog niet wist, is dat hij het voor een groot deel geschreven heeft terwijl hij aan Waarachtige beschrijvingen werkte. De kraai is voor hem een inspiratiebron die hem helpt om te kunnen schrijven. Telkens als hij worstelt met de roman waaraan hij bezig is zijn het de kraaien die hem van belangrijke inzichten voorzien.

Net zoals raven spelen kraaien in de mythologie van tal van volken en culturen een prominente rol, zowel in positieve als in negatieve zin, denk alleen maar aan Huginn en Muninn, de gevleugelde metgezellen van de Noordse god Odin. Soms worden ze vooral als aankondigers van de dood beschouwd, of als tricksters die onrust en chaos veroorzaken, terwijl ze anderzijds ook vaak gezien worden als de voorbodes van spirituele transformaties of als de brengers van wijze raad. Hun gekras prikkelt de intuïtie en opent zo de deur naar lagen in de psyche waar de ratio normalerwijs geen toegang toe heeft.

 

Maldad pura

Vijf maanden geleden kwam ik plotseling op de spoedafdeling cardiologie van het Universitair Medisch Centrum terecht. Ik vertoonde symptomen van een hartinfarct. Dat bleek niet het geval te zijn en van een longembolie was gelukkig ook geen sprake. De vervolgonderzoeken brachten evenmin uitsluitsel over de klachten die ik had. Ik bevond me in een spanningsveld van negatieve energieën, zei Adelina, mijn Chileense profesora Spaans. Het was 'maldad pura', afkomstig van getormenteerde zielen die eropuit waren om mij kwaad te berokkenen. Misschien een ietwat raadselachtige diagnose, maar toch ook niet iets om zomaar aan voorbij te gaan, Adelina heeft het namelijk verbluffend vaak bij het rechte eind.

Wat de betekenis is van de kraai die zondag mijn pad kruiste weet ik niet. Ik nam hem pas waar toen hij, schuin boven mijn hoofd, luidkeels begon te krassen. Daar ging hij een tijdje mee door, tot hij plotseling opvloog en op een tak een tiental meters verderop landde. Ineens was hij toen niet meer alleen, want daar bleek nog een kraai te zitten, heel stilletjes. Zijn vrouwtje, neem ik aan. Waarschijnlijk probeerde hij hun territorium te beschermen.

Het is winter. En straks wordt het weer lente. Een schone lei, dat is wat nodig is. Een uitgemeste stal. Een veilig territorium. Adelina opperde ook al zoiets. Ik ben dan ook zeer geneigd om het gebeuren in de bloementuin van afgelopen zondag als een gunstig voorteken te zien.

Als een brug tussen oud en nieuw.

©Huub Drenth

De Santiago a Zapallar

Solstice waves

Leaving Santiago always feels like shedding a layer. The city’s sharp edges—glass towers, traffic, urgency—fall away as the highway carries travelers northwest. Dry hills and wide valleys replace concrete, their colors muted and sun-worn. Vineyards and small towns pass in a steady rhythm, each kilometer loosening the grip of the capital.

For many, Viña del Mar is the first coastal greeting. The road descends toward a city alive with motion: tall buildings face the sea, traffic circles roundabouts, cafés and hotels hum with voices. Waves crash harder here, louder, competing with music drifting from open windows. Viña feels elegant but energetic—a place of festivals, busy beaches, and long promenades where the ocean becomes a spectacle.

A short pause at the archeological and historical museum offers a more contemplative experience. Inside, the pace slows as pre-Columbian artifacts and carefully preserved histories trace lives lived long before the city and the coast took their modern shape. It is reminding travelers that this lively shoreline rests on much deeper layers of time.

 

  

The journey continues. Beyond Viña, the road grows quiet again. The coastline stretches wider, less crowded, the towns space themselves farther apart. Papudo slips by, then La Laguna, until the landscape turns greener and the curves soften. The air cools. Conversations lower.

The final descent into Zapallar remains subtle. No skyline announces it, no noise rises to meet the traveler. Instead, the bay reveals itself slowly—a perfect curve of sand cradled by rocky arms. Houses hide among trees, gardens spilling down the hillsides as if trying not to disturb the view.

Here, time behaves differently. Mornings belong to walks along la rambla, where the sea murmurs instead of roars. Afternoons unfold on the beach, unhurried, the water cold and clear. Offshore, seabirds gather on distant rocks, unmoved by human schedules.

In the evening, as the sun dips low, the contrast becomes clear. Viña del Mar glitters somewhere down the coast, lively and awake. Zapallar dims its lights instead, turns inward, letting the sound of the waves take over. In the plaza, an old fountain whispers stories from centuries past, and dinners stretch long beneath a cooling sky.

Both places face the same ocean. But where Viña embraces the world, Zapallar offers refuge from it. And for those who drive the road all the way from Santiago, passing through one to reach the other, the difference is not just geographic—it is a change of pace, of breath, of way of being.

Narrative: HD & ChatGPT
Photos: Adelina Luna
Music: Peia Luzzi

 The bay of Zapallar.